Bavaria, Ottobeuren and Tenterfield

Just when I was adjusting to the long wet days the European summer finally kicks in. The ride from Munich towards the southwest part of Bavaria was a wonderful introduction for experiences to come.
I packed my day's food and thermos with lhot water from proceeds I prepared during the hotel breakfast as I always do. This gives me the flexibility of having some space along the way if I just wanted to stop at many of the park benches along the cycling path and take in the views and listen to the water and bird life. If I feel like a coffee for a kick of energy there are plenty of villages to choose from. They're so close and numerous here that before you know it you arrive at another village.

I camped above a village in a lovely space under a large oak tree with a park bench and a memorial to the lives lost fromthe area during the wars. Hard for mothers to lose their young sons and husbands whatever side - I paid my respects and reflected while enjoying this beautiful area of Germany.

Bavaria is one of the largest of Germany's federation of states. The Bavarians emerged in a region north of the Alps, originally inhabited by the Celts. The Bavarians emerged in a region north of the Alps, originally inhabited by the Celts, which had been part of the Roman provinces. Apparently they emerged from groups left behind by Roman withdrawal late in the 5th century. Many milleium later after the rise of Prussia, Bavaria managed to preserve its independence by testing the rivalries of Prussia and Austria. It was an ally of Austria, but was defeated in the 1866 Austro-Prussian War and did not belong to the North German Federation of 1867.

Then France attacked Prussia in 1870, and the south German states Baden-Württemberg and Bavaria joined the Prussian forces and ultimately the Federation, which was renamed Deutsches Reich (German Empire) in 1871. Bavaria continued with some special right as part of the newly formed German Empire despite Bavarian nationalists rejcecting the idea that Bavaria should have joined the German Empire, because being primarliy Catholic, they did not want to be ruled by a Protestant Prussia. Over time they have come to accept membership of the federation of Germany.
A number of us in Australia love German engineering for its preciseness and quality, especially the auto industry. Bavaria of course is home for the marques of BMW and Audi and other prominate states produce the VW, Mercedes and Porche (my favourite). Yes even an environmentally aware world cyclist can appreciate good auto engineering.

On my way to Lake Constance from Munich i stayed in a delightful village called Ottobeuren. My host was a well connected citizen of the village and had my three-day stay well mapped out. She was very generous with her time and hospitality and we managed to communicate despite me not speaking German and she not able to speak English. A lovely neighbour and family member provided the translation for us and took me to a number of cultural and interesting events.
Such as a visit to the local Rathaus (local council) and met with the Burgemeister (mayor) of the town who presented me with a gift from the town. Ottobeuren and Tenterfield in Queensland, Australai are sister cities and there is good cultural exchange between the towns.

I also spent time with the neighbour who took me on a guided tour of the impressive local basilica and I learnt how the monks lived here over the centuries. Ottobeuren has the largest baroque monastory in the world. That night in Kaisersaal we all attended a performance of a Welsh male choir from Port Talbot. You know you're going to be entertained when a Welsh male choir is let loose, especially in old and acoustically rich building. I was also taken to a piano and vocal duet at the Erich Schickling art complex in the region and the next day on another personal guided tour of the Karthaus in Buxheim. This Carthusian Monastry depicts the religious disciplined life of a monk here during the period 1402 - 1803.

The next day, after an interview and some photos by a local journalist about my solo cycling tour I bid farewell to my wonderful host and headed south west for Lake Constance.
I left with a enlightened appreciation of long rich history, life and culture in an intimate, warm and friendly Bavarian town called Ottobeuren.

Posted with Blogsy

Prague, floods and Ava

Travelling from Vienna to Prague by train was an interesting and comfortable journey (yes, another train journey to escape the three days of rain in Vienna) in economy class you get your own private little writing, eating table and plenty of space for the bike bags and the bike. Just make sure you reserve the bike when you book your seat or you may not get it on. It was one extra euro for the bike but worth it.

The country changes from hills to virtually flat open rural districts and as you cross into the Czech Republic you also notice the different makeup of the villages - a very Bohemian landscape.

If your going to Prague you're not going because it's pouring with rain and potentially flooding again as it apparently did in 2002 - and you're not going because you want to watch wood, plastic buckets, organic debri and whatever else can float on the torrent of brown called the Danube (or sometimes called the Blue Danube or Donau by the German's) from the famous Charles Bridge.

That's what Prague presented to me for three days due to the constant rain flooding districts all over Central Europe with the water eventually finding somewhere to go. As a result the large a German city of Passau completely flooded and was a destination I had planned for my so-called Danube cycling tour, not.

But I did go to see the Old Town Hall initially built in the 1300's with the present Gothic and Renaissance portions having been carefully restored since the devastation of World War II.

The 12th-century dungeon in the basement became the headquarters of the Resistance during the Prague uprising in 1945.

There is also the Astronomical Clock in the main square that has been running since 1490 and shows the movement of the sun and moon through the zodiac. Very eclectic style.

I've also seen a lot of churches in Europe - they're everywhere and just massive in size and simply indicative of the endemic stamp of a long religious history in Europe. The landscape is simply marked by them and actually helps to navigate towns because the church tower really stands out above the forests.

As I walked into the central square a very large St Nicholas Church to the left caught my eye and as I walked up the steps a young Czech woman at the top behind a table asked if I would like to attend a concert leter that day with a performance by the Prague Mozart Trio and female mezzo soprano. I had to think for only a microsecond before I said yes and paid just 20 euros to hear local musicians, in a magnificent structure in Prague! Wow! The program included Handel, Mozart, Beethoven, Franck and Kopriva and the acoustics in the church is superb. Of course after the concert I wandered around the city square, found a suitable cosy restaurant and celebrated the bike and my first month travelling in Europe.

The bike has already endured several months in eastern Australia and New Zealand with a heavy load and has not missed a best, albeit one puncture and still with original front tyre. Ava as I call it (short for Avanti the brand) has all the resilience and stoicism of a strong German Frau and has endured dirt roads, rough tracks, forest bogs and torrential rain.

150m escalator

Some TLC (tender loving care) has also been given with the good oil, new chain, disc brake pads and occasional clean. It really gathers speed downhill with me and 43kilos in motion, in fact I have peaked at 70km in New Zealand but then started to apply the brakes so I could negotiate the bend at the bottom with confidence. Weeeeeeeee!!!!

Next on the horizon - Munich

 

Posted with Blogsy

Vienna, Beethoven and the Vienna Philharmoniker

One impression for me of Europe is the massive networks of transport infrastructure that exist and work together despite differences in systems and in same cases, politics. They have a lot of experience moving large numbers of the population around the continent and with impressive timing.

As a cycling tourist there has been the occasional reluctance from the transport operator to put the bike on the bus or train but I have learnt to successively negotiate a favourable outcome. There have been logistical challenges along the way. To add another layer of complexity the central train stations of Venice, Salzburg and Prague are undergoing or have recently completed major reconstructions of their platforms and administration area - brand new stations basically, so you have to deal not only with the new language but navigate through half-completed construction zones.

Brahms

Also when I am riding, the journey is made easier because of the networks of dedicated cycling paths, either through villages and cities or alongside rivers or the autobahn.

Vienna (Wein) is the second Austrian city for me to visit and for good reason. Beethoven lived and composed here for some years up to the remainderof his life.

Schubert

Like Shostakovich , Beethoven is a firm and important place in my music listening repitoire. A world's most liveable city survey was conducted in 2012 and Vienna was ranked number two, behind Melbourne in Australia.

Mmmmm.... Austria, Australia - is there a connection here?

Now first about Vienna - Vienna's history began with the Romans, who established it in the 1st Century as Vindobona, one of a line of Roman defensive outposts against Germanic tribes. Vindobona's central mitiary was on the site of what is now the Hoher Markt (the "High Market" due to its relative height over the Danube), and you can still see the excavations of its foundations there today.

Vienna hosted the Habsburg court for several centuries, first as the Imperial seat of the Holy Roman Empire, then the capital of the Austrian Empire, and later of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. It is the cultural and economic centre of Austria and an education for my ignorance - as over a third of the population are from Slovakia, Turkey, Germany, and of course Hungary because of its legacy as part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire before the nation split during World War 1.

Also it was home to the world's first psycho-analyst - Sigmund Freud.

Like the other cities I have stayed in, the centre of Vienna has a typically ornate Baroque architecture. Baroque is not just a musical period (around 1600-1730 after the Reanaisance and before the Classical cultural period) but an artistic style. Bach and Handel were composers in the middle to later part of this period. Mozart, Schubert and Beethoven followed in the Classical period.

Mozart

As well as the visual splendour of this city I also enjoyed the aural. By chance, one of the the world's most highly regarded symphony orchestras, the Vienna Philharmoniker performed at a free open air concert Schonbrunn Palace during the second evening I was there in their home city. I could not believe it, so despite the rain I enjoyed the performance along with several young couples who were dancing to the Viennese waltz.

I could not leave until I visited the Beethoven's final resting place and paid my respects to this German composer who was a significant musical figure in the transition between the Classical and Romantic eras in Western music and will in my mind be one of the most famous and influential of all composers.

It is extroadinary that his best and later works were composed when he was practically deaf.

Mozart (memorial grave as the exact location of his bones in the grounds are not known). Schubert, Brahms and Strauss along with other important historical figures are also buried along side each other in this group of significant historical figures. The Zentralfriedhof cemetry is located south east of the city of Vienna via a half hour tram ride no 71. Get off at tram stop Tor-2 on the east side of the grounds and walk a few minutes up the main path. This particular group 32A is on your left and Beethoven is grave 29 in the group.

 

Posted with Blogsy

Salzburg, Mozart and the Sound of Music

Some of the prime cultural attractions for me would always be Salzburg and Vienna in Austria because of my passion for classical music. How vain of me to actually ride into Salzburg on the bicycle in the simplest of transport options unless you go with the horse and buggy. Over four and a half days I rode from Innsbruck following the dedicated bicycle trails through the valleys and meandering through villages.

You really have to keep watch for the little markers pointing in the direction you need to go. I passed through villages like Jenbach, Schwaz, Weigel, Kufstein in Austria and momentarily crossing over into Germany then east back into Austria.

Austria's smallest chapel?

 

The Berghof residence was Adolf Hitler's vacation home and is located in these mountains

Germany welcomes me for a short visit

In Scwaz I stopped for morning tea and looked at the display specials board outside. It had Apple Studel oder Topfen mit caffee. Mmm? ..... OK - I knew topfen was Austrian for what we would call a low fat ricotta cheese and oder must be or and mit must be with so. No one spoke english and I did not speak German so I just pointed at the board outside and asked for apple strudel mit caffee Americana and politely guided to a nice window seat. Before long a glass of water arrives with a small buscuit to start with. How nice (learn from this Australia hospitality industry!) to be treated with courtesy and respect as a visitor. I have found in all the countries I have visited how good the service is and how little they charge - they've had a lot of years to practice but I find that 'service' must be an important personal attribute and they're genuine interest is refreshing.

Mozart born in room with open window

Entrance to Cemetry

I gave myself three days in Salzburg and another three in Vienna to visit the obvious historical sites and neighbourhoods of Mozart (Salzburg) and Beethoven (Vienna) and include a concert where possible.

Mozart's father's grave

It's hard to describe how I felt when walking through the narrow stoned-paved streets where Mozart had walked on his way to music or social engagements. My IPod worked it's way through the Mozart playlist to add a little more atmosphere. I also download some self guided tour mp3 audio files to soak up the history.

By chance I turned down a side lane and discovered a small entrance to this peaceful private cemetery where Mozart's wife and father were buried. How extroadinary to come across these as I was actually looking for a washroom. That really puts things in perspective!

Mozart's wife's grave

Salzburg has a charming old city centre with baroque architecture and the city's fortress Festung Hohensalzburg, was built in 1077. That's and impressive age for a super structure. and not high up in the alps which was my original impression - nothing like seeing to remove the assumptions. Apparently the town's name means "Salt Fortress". It derives its name from the barges carrying salt on the river which were subject to a toll in the 8th century.

Bicycle parking Salzburg style

Salzburg was also the setting for the 1960's film The Sound of Music.

The only negative experience was being told by one hotel staff member not to come back and choose a hostel next time. She did not like touring cyclists or what she termed me as a "camper'. I knew I was going to have an unpleasant exit with her after I complimented her on the nice breakfast and she was quite obtuse in response. Other hotel staff certainly appreciated my acknowledgment of their good service and clean accommodation.

Now to head east to Vienna.

 

Posted with Blogsy

Introduction to Austria

As I head further in central Europe I keep bouncing of wet walls. That is to say, that Europe in general is experiencing a wetter and colder Spring and Summer than normal. There will be two dry sunny days followed by five wet ones and so the cycle of wet/dry weather continues. It's completely opposite to what we get typically get in southern Australia for Summer. Which means I've spent more time on trains and in hotels/hostels than I would prefer. Still, the cost is relatively low even after currency exchange so my budget can absorb it but I would rather do five days riding for every two days of hotel/hostel stays because I like being outside and I came to ride. I know it will improve and to help with planning I've found the BBC weather Internet site vey impressive for the amount and format of information it presents, especially the map and four day outlook.

View from my room

But there is an old Polish proverb "turn a lemon into a lemonade" which my first public service supervisor being Polish and a war victim as a young girl shared with me. It's a simple way of looking for opportunities or another way of looking at an unfavourable situation. My Vaude panniers (bike bags) that I brought with me and the bicycle were just not suitable for the wetter European climate so to make life easier for me I replaced all the bags with Vaude waterproof panniers that have the same mounting system so I did not have to buy different racks and now have some more attachment fitting spares. I no longer have to keep putting the rain covers back on each time a threatening shower approaches. More important, is all my gear arrives at the resting place nice and dry. These bags are excellent! Also, if I have to pack away a wet tent (sometimes it cannot be avoided) it goes inside a wet-sack that keeps water away from my other gear.

 

The ride to Innsbruck was a slow ascent up through the Brenner Pass and exciting descent with a weeee! factor coming down into the city. Another stunning alpine setting with numerous tall mountains to explore for summer alpine treks or skiing right on your doorstep. Also exciting for me as I cross the border into another country for the first time. It's a real sense of achievement and mmmm? who will I meet and what will I see?

I had some good advice from the youth hostel host a few days earlier that I may like the old hotel right in the city centre where Mozart once stayed. A very affordable room with breakfast and right in the city centre. The hotel staff were very accommodating for my cycle touring needs and even found cellar space to store the bike. I noted how old the cellar walls looked and though OMG - if these walls could talk.

The stairs up to my room had a rather curious slant to them so I held on the rail only because of a slight reduction in my walking comfidence factor. This was due to the Greek experience where gutters are quite high and there are no entry or exit slopes for bikes or pedestrians, therefore I really had to stay focused not to fall over.

 

I even found a bicycle store 5 mins up the road for some new parts. Cycling is very popular and they have the environment and infrastructure set up for it.

 

After a few days spoiling myself with great food and Austrian cultural events I then started on the next stage - a four/five day ride to Salzburg.

 

Posted with Blogsy

Northern Italian Alps (South Tyrol) südtirol

The train trip to Belzano (known as Bozen by the German people here) was an introduction for things to come. The landscape changed from flat agricultural with typically Italian market gardens and villages to my first hint of German regional architecture and the very large houses, usually two to three stories with window shutters and window boxes full of Spring flowers.

The very high mountains simply rise majestically out of the valleys with impressive altitudes here - the snow line was surprisingly low for this time of year.

It was not long before the bike and me were making another exit from a train station and this time straight to the very new and comfortable youth hostel in Belzano/Bozen. I had my own room, breakfast was included and the kitchen and laundry conveniently close.

Just five minutes walk to the town city with a large plaza accommodating plenty of cafes and shops. I knew I had traversed out of southern to central Europe and in a German space because of the consistent conversations in that language.

Today South Tyrol exists as an autonomous Italian province and prosperity here appears more obvious than the south. It was was originally part of the Austro-Hungarian empire until 1918, then annexed by Italy following the defeat in World War I.

This alpine area know as the south Tirol known as südtirol has changed sovereignty between Italy and Austria over some period due to world wars and so on. It is predominantly German but is a good example of where nationalities have found a nice mix and living happily together.

Although it's a predominately German speaking population, the streets signs have Italian and German spelling which took me a while to get adjusted to but I found everything I needed including a visit to the local world famous Archealogical Museum with an impressive exhibit on the Ice Man - known as Otzi.

After this amazing discovery of the Ice Man there had been some debate between the two countries about ownership of this discovery. Otzi was found by a couple who had been trekking in the area and just by chance saw a well preserved body exposed in the snow but metres from the border. Thousands of years ago poor Otzi had been wounded by a enemy's spear which severed an artery in his arm and he bled to death.

The ownership of the mummy finally fell in favour of the Italians but German scientists worked closely with the Italians and other world experts to determine the age which indicates around 5,300 years old. I was so excited to be within a metre from this ancient nomad and such an insight for the scientific world of the life of the stone-age community then, what they wore and what they ate. Apparently Otzi shared some common health issues we see as modern health issues today, such as high cholesterol and other diseases.

I enjoyed my stay here in Belzano and absorbing a another new culture - the ride up to Innsbruck via the Brenner Pass towards Austria was my next stage of the journey.

 

Posted with Blogsy