The Greek Islands have always been on my list, the notion of Mediterranean food, whitewashed walled villages, grapevines and friendly slow pace has always appealed to me. As I mentioned in an earlier post, living amongst the Greek communities in Melbourne and Adelaide gave me a an appreciation of their culture and strong sense of community spirit.
There are several thousand islands but only a few hundred are actually inhabited. The largest Greek island by area is Crete, located at the southern edge of the Aegean Sea. I am staying on the Island of Santorini for five days and this is located more or less in the central region of the Aegean Sea south of the mainland and part of the Cyclades group. Taking the ferry option was a no-brainier as you simply walk the bicycle on and can you believe it? Tie it up yourself. A nine- hour trip cost 35 euros for everything. The turnaround for this huge ferry and return back the other direction is extraordinary as everyone walks down the car ramp along with cars, motorbikes and trucks and within half an hour or so the new passengers and vehicles are on and it's time to go again.
Santorini blue - well let's call it that for artistic licence is a common colour here. As I rode round the island villages I noticed the consistent use of this beautiful blue in the woodwork of the homes and fences etc and against the pure white plaster of the rendered walls.
I love this rustic and rather tasteful rustic simplicity of pure colours and against the rich blue of the sky and sea really works for me. I expected something more in over the top style like a Polish lounge room but pleasantly surprised.
Why the blue? During German occupation in the Second World War the Santorinians were forbidden to fly the Greek flag which of course is white and blue or blue and white - take your pick. So as a way to demonstrate a metaphorical index finger to their oppressors at the time and provide there own unifying strength they painted their homes in the same colour scheme.
My the way I am not anti German - in fact I have dear German friends and Germany is one of the main attractions for my journey - especially given my passion for classical music and the stunning country landscape of Germany and Austria.
Those that know me are aware of my love for food and ten years cooking in an Adelaide restaurant taught the the importance of food where some poor folk will just treat it as some mundane domestic task. You only get one life! A lovely Greek neighbour taught me how to make Spanikopita which I cooked at the restaurant.
What better place to eat healthy and tasty Mediterranean food than in the Mediterranean. As I walked up the narrow cobbled streets in Fira looking for a good meal I found a modest corner entrance to a cafe and then greeted with a friendly smile and directed to the rear and upstairs to a seating area out on the large balcony overlooking the bay of Fira and the city. Wow! Words could not describe my surprise. So I sat down and pondered the menu - mmm let' start with a nice traditional Greek dip and bread, then follow with a vegetarian pasta. I certainly had room for it after today's rather short but hilly 35km ride on the right side of the road with many quad bikes passing and buses by the dozens.
Seems quad bikes are the popular choice on Santorini for couples who can't ride a two-wheeler but want to be 'out there'. It's organised chaos here amongst the narrow streets and your only mode of survival is not to 'think' through the traffic but just use your instinct and do it. Hesitate for a moment and your in trouble. Tooting horns is normal. The huge buses, and there are many here, are cleverly weaved through the narrow streets with great skill by the drivers as they deal with motor bikes, quad bikes, cars, pedestrians and anything you can throw at this organised chaos.
The local supermarket and bakery provided my breakfast, morning tea, lunch and afternoon tea supplies and I even brought my trusty thermos with me. Occasionally I will go for the cafe espresso but in some remote rural scenarios you need to have a backup.
I left all my attachments at the hotel and simply took day rides to the north, south and east of the island - which is a large volcanic ring of islands with a large central caldera in the centre of the bay. Apparently there may be links to ancient ruins here and the legendary lost city of Atlantis. Plenty of hills to the north and south and my favourite rids was up to the village of IA and back along the east coast with little stops to enjoy the coastal views and cup of tea with baklava. The ruins of Akrotiki to the south west and the Red Beach close by are also iconic locations worth a visit
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